Before starting to make the barber-pole wooden pen the block has to be made. Select two contrasting kinds of wood, personal preference is to use Sapelle and sycamore or maple. Rip on the table saw to about 6mm for the bands on the pen, these will appear larger when cutting at an angle for the segmented pen design,
by about 32mm high and the length depends on the size of the block required. By making the strips 32mm they can be used for pens or razor handles. Ripping stock like this on the table saw can be wasteful with the saw blade producing a 4mm kerf so either use a thin kerf blade or rip on the bandsaw and thickness on the planer.
Before glueing the strips together line them up, if the edge of each one is staggered by about 5mm from the one above this will reduce wastage even further. Do not forget to add the triangle marks for alignment when glueing up.
Once dry rip to size on the bandsaw for the size of blank required. It is possible to use hand tools for all the rough sizing
of the strips and blanks, but power tools are quick for such rough work and save the hand tools for the finer wooden crafts.
Once the blanks are cut to size and the ends squared off, head over to the drill press. In this picture, there are blanks for three barber-pole, wooden pens and a razor handle so it's best to put a number on each side of one pen blank with a pencil line
across the centre of the blank for alignment and orientation when they get to the lathe, if not things will get confusing fast with which part goes with which. All the best pens, have the grain running through the pen across the centre band, this will be even more noticeable on these segmented designs and figured woods.
With the parts drilled and tubes glued in place and left overnight to dry, no point in rushing or this will just spoil things. For wooden pens, polyurethane glue is preferable, for Corian its super glue and for resin pens, a two-part epoxy.
With the razor handle or pen blanks mounted between centres with the proper bushes, it's just a matter of turning to the preferred shape and design.
Above is the same razor handle turned and with the CA finish applied. There are other finishes available, but waxes and friction polish will not offer any long-term protection to wooden pens, the warmth from human hands will melt the wax within a couple of hours use so CA is the preferred choice for durability even if it does take a time to apply.
With the wooden pen, barrels turned to shape it's just a matter of assembling all the components.
And finally the finished segmented barber pole pen.
and the handmade Mach 3 razor handle