Before I start making the barber-pole wooden pen the block has to be handmade. Select two contrasting kinds of wood, I like to use Sapelle and sycamore or maple. Rip on the table saw to about 6mm for the bands on the pen, these will appear larger when cutting at an angle for the segmented design,
by about 32mm high and the length depends on the size of the block you want. By making the strips 32mm I can use for pens or razor handles. Ripping stock like this on the table saw can be wasteful with the saw blade producing a 4mm kerf so you could either use a thin kerf blade or rip on the bandsaw and thickness on the planer.
Before glueing the strips together line them up how you want, but if you stagger the edge of each one by about 5mm from the one above you will reduce wastage even further. Don't forget to add the triangle marks for alignment when glueing up.
Once dry rip to size on the bandsaw for the size of blank you need. You can use hand tools for all the rough sizing of
the strips and blanks if you want, but I prefer to save the hand tools for my finer wooden crafts.
Once the blanks are cut to size and the ends squared off, head over to the drill press. In this picture, I have blanks for three barber-pole, wooden pens and a razor handle so it's best to put a number on each side of one pen blank with a pencil line
across the centre of the blank for alignment and orientation when you get to the lathe, if not things will get confusing fast as to which part goes with which. All the best pens, have the grain running through the pen across the centre band, this will be even more noticeable on these segmented designs and figured woods.
With the parts drilled and tubes glued in place and left overnight to dry, no point in rushing or you will just spoil things. For wood pens, I use polyurethane glue, for Corian its super glue and for resin pens, I use a two-part epoxy.
With the razor handle or pen blanks mounted between centres with the proper bushes, it's just a matter of turning to your preferred shape and style.
Above is the same handle turned and with the CA finish applied. There are other finishes available, but waxes and friction polish won't offer any long-term protection to wooden pens, the warmth from your hands will melt the wax within a couple of hours use so CA is my preferred choice for durability even if it does take a time to apply.
With the pen, barrels turned to shape it's just a matter of assembling all the components.
And finally the finished segmented barber-pole pen.
and the Mach 3 razor handle